Whether it’s a slow-roasted pork ciabatta from The Black Pig or a cup of Turnips’ chocolate covered strawberries, Borough Market is home to the most sought-after food in London.
And for 13 years, one of its most popular vendors has been Bread Ahead.
The bakery’s signature vanilla custard-filled crème brûlée doughnuts attract visitors from across the country — but now, the store’s very existence is coming under the threat.
Founder Matthew Jones has shared that Borough Market will not be reviewing the trader’s lease.
According to the owner, the bakery was recently informed that its ‘international growth’ has meant it is now ‘too successful’ to continue operating in the historic market hall.
For Matthew, who built his thriving business with no corporate backing or millionaire investor, operating at the heart of Borough Market is something he’s incredibly proud of.
But he says what was once a close and fruitful relationship, is now crumbling down.
What’s the problem between Bread Ahead and Borough Market?
When Metro spoke with Matthew, his frustration was clear.
‘It all started six months ago’, he explains. ‘We went through what Borough Market call a “formal review process”. They looked at our food standards, the flour we buy, any problems, our plastic use.
‘They’re very thorough – as they should be. It was an incredibly time-consuming process.’
Then, Matthew says Bread Ahead was asked to meet with Borough Market bosses for a final meeting, where they pulled out a ‘wildcard’.
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‘They say they won’t be renewing our lease because we’ve grown too big and franchised internationally,’ Matthew explains.
It’s true the company has expanded since its humble beginnings in 2013, as a small, single stall in the market.
It now has 22 locations across the world — a mix of stalls, bricks and mortar shops and bakery schools.
There are seven in the UK, four in Dubai, eight in Saudi Arabia, one in the US, one in the Philippines, and one in Thailand.
They’re not the only vendors in Borough Market to franchise, though.
Popular butchers The Ginger Pig, for example, has eight other locations across London.
Matthew says he would ‘get’ the decision, if Bread Ahead had begun to ‘cheapen’ their brand by turning to mega investment companies, for example.
‘But I spend my life, seven days a week, flying the British flag for baking education and entrepreneurship,’ he says.
‘I really don’t appreciate being led down the garden path for six months and then being told: “Actually, you’re too big — get out”.
‘Where’s the loyalty?’, he asks.
‼️BREAKING NEWS‼️ Borough Market recently informed us that they want Bread Ahead to wind down its operations. This would mean the loss of 83 jobs, the effect on the families of all our wonderful and dedicated employees who have given everything to the business. On a personal level, I’m a guy who left school at 15 and have been 100% committed to my business at every level. I’m starting to think the UK has completely lost its ability to make any kind of sensible decisions. Who in Gods name would anyone what to shut down a wonderful thriving part of a local and international community? How can you help? Come and see the team at @boroughmarket , buy our products, book a bakery class today. It is my legal responsibility as a business owner to protect my business and the staff in every way I can , and trust me, I will do whatever it takes. Please share vigorously. #bakersunite #businessmindset #londonbakery #london
Matthew has been sharing updates with his followers on social media, urging the community to spread the word.
In the meantime, he tells Metro the bakery has sent Borough Market a solicitor’s letter.
‘It’s not written anywhere in their policy that we’re not allowed to franchise, and what business is it of theirs what we do internationally?
‘All I really want to do is run my business and create more employment and opportunities,’ Matthew continues.
What does Borough Market say?
In response to the recent tensions, a spokesperson for Borough Market told Metro: ‘Our relationships with traders are really important to us, whether they’re actively trading or as part of our alumni of success stories.
‘No matter how long businesses are with us for, we value their contribution to making Borough Market what it is,
‘As a responsible landlord, our decisions around lease renewals are made through a formal process and communicated to the trader well in advance of the expiry date.
‘We continue to be in contact with the Bread Ahead team about their future at the market, but as discussions relating to individual tenancies are confidential it would not be appropriate to comment on the specific details of this case.
‘Our approach is to apply these processes fairly and consistently, while ensuring Borough Market continues to evolve and thrive as one of London’s leading food destinations where independent businesses can thrive’.
There are a number of people online who appear to appreciate the market’s perspective.
On TikTok, @awfthisapp wrote: ‘I think it’s fair for new upcoming/struggling entrepreneurs to also be given a chance to build and grow! Just like you have!’
A number of others called the decision totally ‘reasonable’ while @garyblackwell added: ‘You have inspired the next generation, but you’re taking up the space for them to do anything about it. When you’ve got franchises internationally but still won’t move out of a place meant for new startups etc you’re not going to get much support’.
As an established business, many believe that it might be an appropriate time for Bread Ahead to move on.
So, what now?
With a staff of 83 people at the Borough Market site, Matthew is nervous for what the future holds.
‘Financially, I would love to stay. But on a personal level, the trust is broken’.
Matthew did also reveal that he’s already been contacted by a number of landlords across London, all of whom have shared they’d love to be Bread Ahead’s next new home.
So, the question is: if they do leave, where will they end up?
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