Colleen Sims is a British travel writer who has been visiting Spain since the 1980s and has walked the Camino de Santiago 24 times. She tells our Travel Editor Alice Murphy about the Spanish city she loves most.
I’ve walked my way across Spain on 24 Caminos de Santiago. I honeymooned in Seville and have returned to the country countless times over the past 42 years.
I’ve visited more cities than I can recall. Where do I start?
There’s Cádiz, Jerez, Albacete, Valencia, Salamanca, Cáceres, Mérida, León, Lugo, Burgos, Bilbao, Oviedo, Seville, Santiago de Compostela, Córdoba, Granada, Pamplona, Logroño, Vigo, Pontevedra, A Coruña and, of course, Madrid and Barcelona.
And I know I’ve missed plenty!
Choosing a favourite is genuinely difficult. Salamanca, Cádiz, Santiago de Compostela and Córdoba would all be contenders, but for me, it has to be Mérida.
The capital of the Extremadura region has a population of around 60,000, but its centre feels more like a provincial town.
Mérida was once one of the most important Roman cities, but despite its 2,000 years of history, it remains surprisingly unknown to many travellers.
I first walked into Mérida while following the Via de la Plata Camino 1,000km from Seville to Santiago.
That time, we stayed in the pilgrim albergue, found a simple menú del día and joined the lively crowds in Plaza de España at night.
I loved the city, mainly for its amazing Roman history, and we stayed for an extra day before walking on.
I returned with my husband Gerry a few years later. This time we stayed at the Parador, which was absolutely worth it.
Mérida has a magnificent Roman theatre and amphitheatre, where you can still watch live performances during the summer.
Throughout the city, you’ll also discover the Temple of Diana, the Roman bridge, aqueducts, circus and National Museum of Roman Art.
Beyond its Roman heritage, Mérida also has a Moorish history, excellent restaurants and very good local wine.
We love trying all of it, and going off the beaten track to regions like Extremadura is a wonderful way to find traditional food.
Before reaching Mérida, I had walked through Monesterio, famous for its Ibérico ham (they even have a ham museum).
Beyond Mérida, we crossed enormous cattle-grazing fields while following in the footsteps of the Romans to Caperra and Salamanca.
Elsewhere there were sheep, so many vineyards and so much locally grown produce.
In Cáceres, Gerry tried to order a Rioja and was firmly told no. We were served a local Extremaduran wine instead, and it was indeed excellent.
Guárdatela porque es una 💎 #merida #meridaespaña #viajar #parati #salseoentiktok
On our last visit to Mérida, we ate at Malcriao Restaurante, just off Plaza de España, and also had dinner in the Parador.
We usually avoid eating in hotels, but this dinner was excellent and probably one of the best Parador meals we’ve had; including a platter of thinly aged carved local ham.
La Carbonería and Sybarit Gastroshop are also excellent choices. And at the other end of gastronomy, many of the bars and restaurants in the centre offer tapas and an excellent menu del dia.
I had amazing nachos with lashings of avocado and salsa last time and not ashamed to say I go back for another plate.
We’ll often stop at the busiest spot and order what everyone else is eating.
A favourite was Torta del Casar; a local sheep’s cheese, perfect for sharing.
You cut off the top and spoon out the creamy centre, almost like a fondue. You just need bread, maybe a little jamón ibérico with olives and a glass of local red wine.
Gerry would also recommended caldereta de cordero, a traditional slow-cooked lamb stew made with peppers, garlic, paprika and wine.
He loves this kind of hearty local dish and was very content. You could also choose the local beef, grilled and generously salted.
The regional wine denomination is D.O. Ribera del Guadiana, and many of its red wines are based on Tempranillo.
I don’t remember particular vineyards, but my advice is to ask for a local house wine or choose a Ribera del Guadiana from the menu.
We are very rarely disappointed by local wine accompanied by a plate of tapas.
I should mention that am gluten free and celiac is very understood in Spain; I can always find good safe choices.
Overall, I would say that Mérida is compact and walkable, with a relaxed, lived-in atmosphere. It’s not as glitzy as Spain’s popular tourist destinations, but that is part of its charm.
Walking different Caminos has really shown me the many sides of Spain which is far more than its famous Costas, and Mérida is a stand out.
It’s perfect for a weekend getaway and deserves to be far better known.
Our last visit was in December, when the city was decorated with Christmas lights.
Easter is another important time to visit, and in summer concerts and plays are staged in the Roman Theatre. We plan to return one day for a performance.
I could happily wax lyrical about other wonderful places in Spain, but Mérida is a cut above the rest.
As told to Alice Murphy.
Colleen Sims is a British travel writer living in France for almost 20 years.
She travels almost full-time and runs the travel blog, Then We Walked.
Comment now
Comments
Add Metro as a Preferred Source on Google
Add as preferred source