Both Armenia and Georgia lay claim to being the oldest producers of wine in the world; given that there were no borders 6,000-8,000 years ago, both are probably right.

A recent visit to Armenia was fascinating. Under Soviet rule, Georgia and Moldova were designated as wine producers, while it was decided that Armenia would produce brandy instead. As a result Armenia still produces some excellent aged brandy that is well worth trying. One big producer is owned by French luxury goods group LVMH. However, like Georgia, Armenia also has hundreds of indigenous grape varieties, some of which produce excellent wine. I feature one below made from the very promising areni noir grape.

I haven’t made it to Georgia yet, but I sometimes feel as if I have after listening to John Wurdeman. Wurdeman is an American artist and collector of songs who arrived in Georgia to study Georgian folk music. There he fell in love with the unique wines, and founded a winery called Pheasant’s Tears in 2006, as well as several restaurants and a travel company. He also tours the world promoting the wines.

The tradition in Georgia, going back 6,000 years, is to ferment and age wine in qvevri, large clay amphorae, that are buried in the ground of the winery. Sometimes whole bunches of grapes are included for varying periods of time. Usually made from white grapes, the resulting wines have a deep colour and often some tannins too. This is the original home of orange or amber wine. As well as this week’s wines, I featured the excellent Chinuri from Iago Bitarishvili (Georgia, €30.85) in May this year.

Qvevris Kisi 2022, Kakheti, Georgia

12%, €16

Intensely floral with a complex mix of dried herbs, apricots and peaches with light tannins on the finish. A personal favourite of mine, this is a great introduction to orange wine at an exceptional price.

Marks & Spencer

Mtsvane 2024, Pheasant’s Tears, Kakheti, Georgia

13.5%, €26.95

Light and refreshing with delicious tangy honey, orange peel and spicy, exotic fruits. Attractive grippy light tannins on the finish.

BaRossa, Dublin 4; Cappagh Stores, Galway; Delgany Wine Cottage, Co Wicklow; L’Atitude 51, Cork; LeCaveau.ie

Rkatsiteli 2024, Marani Urjukas, Kakheti, Georgia

12.6%, €30.95

Lively and fresh with pears, pineapples and tropical fruits; tangy and lightly tannic. Intriguing and very enjoyable.

Le Caveau.ie; Sweeney’s, Dublin 3

Zorah Karasi Areni Noir 2022, Armenia

13.5%, €45.99

Lightly spicy aromas with vibrant piquant red cherry and redcurrant fruits and refreshing acidity. Very different and very delicious.

64 Wine, Glasthule, Co Dublin; The Corkscrew, Dublin 2; Mitchell & Son, Glasthule and Hatch Street, Dublin 2; Woodberrys.ie, Galway; Wineonline.ie