Asia’s original luxury tented paradise lies just beyond Bali

The resort

Amanwana, Moyo Island, Indonesia

Check-in

A black SUV collects me from Sumbawa’s Sultan Muhammad Kaharuddin Airport for the 20-minute drive to a private harbour where I’m offered toilet facilities and a cold towel before boarding Aman X, the resort’s two-level open-air cruiser. On the upper level it’s an exciting windswept 45-minute ride across the Flores Sea to the resort where staff wave welcomingly from the wooden pier. On shore, I’m treated to a refreshing tamarind welcome drink (and another cool towel) before being escorted to my tent for an easy-going check-in.

The look

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This is a true island paradise from the silvery fish in the crystal-clear reef to the luminescent green rainforest hiding protected rusa deer and cheeky macaques. The jungle forms the backdrop to 17 glamping tents neatly staggered along a grassy stretch, metres from the shoreline. Their white canvas peaks and knotted guy ropes pop against the natural landscape and provide a counterpoint to the resort’s main open-air pavilion design, a traditional Indonesian building with central teak columns, a soaring peaked ceiling and alang-alang grass rooftop. The resort, touted as the first luxury tented resort in Asia, opened in 1993 and the classically colonial design remains wonderfully timeless.

The tents

The resort’s luxury tents are large (58 square metres), rectangular and categorised according to location – jungle, ocean view and ocean front. They’re sturdily built, with teak window and door frames, solid walls and hardy canvas rooftops. Which is to say, they feel more like luxury suites than tents except perhaps when the monkeys jump on the roof, or a gecko scurries through the bathroom. The interiors radiate luxury, with the white bed linen, mosquito nets, blinds and couches softened by dark hardwood floors, carved wood furnishings and rattan mats.

I’m staying in an ocean-front tent. From the central king-sized bed I have 180-degree views across Amanwana Bay. Stepping outside, there’s a hammock swaying between the trees, umbrella-shaded recliners and two deck chairs. From any of these restful places it’s possible to see black-tipped reef sharks playing in the protected marine park shallows.

Food + drink

In my tent, little desktop glass jars are constantly topped up with cookies, cashews (which grow on the island) and yummy Indonesian kerupuk crackers. The mini-bar is generously stocked (and all-inclusive), but it’s tempting to gravitate to the breezy main pavilion for evening cocktails. Breakfast, lunch and dinner is also served in this huge space on round teak tables with white table cloths. Indonesian dishes are the specialty, the best of which is a Sumbawanese bakela meaning “sharing from one platter”. The feast is traditionally cooked on special occasions and stars a central cone of nasi kuning (yellow rice) surrounded by little dishes including spicy beef curry, grilled chicken, fish steamed in banana leaf, and urap, a delicious salad made from cooked greens, bamboo shoots and grated coconut.

Out + about

Moyo Island, neighbouring Satonda island and the surrounding waterways have been protected since 1976 and were gazetted national and marine park in 2022. Together, they form an idyllic playground where guests can chase waterfalls, hike, kayak, scuba dive and snorkel. The cascading limestone pools of Moyo’s Mata Jitu waterfall is a highlight, especially when paired with the resort’s floating sound bath experience.

The verdict

Amanwana is one of Asia’s most bucket-listed luxury resort destinations. The remote location and tented approach ensure it is relaxed and comfortable (rather than fussy or pretentious) and an immersion in pristine nature.

Essentials

Double tents from $2991 a night, with a three-night minimum. Includes round-trip car and boat transfers from Sumbawa Airport; full board including daily breakfast, lunch and dinner; in-room refreshments and non-alcoholic beverages; laundry; and use of non-motorised watersports equipment. Amanwana, Moyo Island, West Sumbawa Regency, West Nusa Tenggara, Indonesia. See aman.com

Our score out of five

★★★★★

Highlight

Marine park snorkelling straight off the beach.

Lowlight

Sadly the whale shark experience is not animal-friendly. Whale sharks are hand-fed from a fishing boat, so they just stay in the one position and fish are thrown into their mouths.

The writer stayed as a guest of Amanwana.

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Penny Watson is a travel writer currently based in Bali.AdvertisementAdvertisement