This Michelin-approved Aussie hotel is surf culture meets the Med

The hotel

Il Delfino Seaside Inn, Yamba

Check-in

At first, I think I’ve arrived at the wrong address. This is … a house? But no, there’s the sign, “Il Delfino, 1948”. Still, it feels very intimate, like I’m about to walk in on a group of exceptionally cool friends drinking natural wines and shucking their own oysters. Also, how do I get in? The terracotta-red doors seem to open into a private courtyard. Then, I remember: I was given specific instructions on how to get to my room, and told I should read them before arriving. Thankfully, I’m in Yamba on the NSW North Coast, not middle-of-nowhere-no-reception. I find the instructions and they lead me down a side path, where doors are clearly marked with the names of suites.

The look

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This once sleepy, lesser-known beach town has had a serious glow-up across the last decade, when those tired of Byron Bay’s “Sydney on the North Coast” aesthetic went looking for a similar beach town without the crowds. Today, Yamba gets crowded in summer but outside that it still retains some of that sleepy-town charm. You could say the same for Il Delfino. While yes, it is a celebration of Italian coastal chic, it’s also a lesson in honouring history. There’s a reason the seaside inn was last year awarded a Michelin Key, the Michelin Guide tick of approval given to the most outstanding hotels worldwide. The building, perched on the rocky ocean edge, was built in 1948, and local owner Sheree Commerford restored its quirky details while adding luxury elements, elevating it without destroying its salt-crusted character.

It’s obvious on entry that The Lido is the place to be. Tucked behind a red-arched gate labelled “La Spiaggia” three stone platforms cascade downward, merging with the rocky edge of Yamba’s blue waters. There are outdoor chessboards for sun-drenched play, but it’s the lowest level that I’m immediately drawn to – sun lounges and pomodoro-red beach umbrellas, a heartbeat from the ocean. It’s where I soak up the afternoon’s soft warmth, a good (well, trashy) book in hand.

The room

I’m staying in Portofino, one of just four suites and a bungalow that make up the boutique hotel. Wide 1940s windows with creaky original levers allow me to throw open each pane to let a salty sea breeze rush in. It’s almost overwhelming, this proximity of the ocean. I leave them open during my entire stay.

The 54-square-metre space is as open-plan as it gets, with two luxurious queen bedrooms that sink into whitewashed walls, cosy hideaways with floor-to-ceiling linen curtains for privacy. You can sense the love that’s gone into the restoration project: a 1950s bathroom vanity, a weathered wooden table that looks like it’s seen many lifetimes, a red-and-white striped daybed running the length of the room. The interior flows seamlessly out to a spacious balcony with ocean views, deckchairs at the ready.

Food + drink

The idea behind Il Delfino is private, self-contained accommodation, so you won’t find an in-house restaurant or breakfast buffet. With fully equipped kitchens, there’s always the option of picking up some fresh produce at the local farmer’s market (held each Wednesday morning at Whiting Beach) and staying in, but Yamba is a walking town, and all the best restaurants, bars and pubs are steps away. A must-visit is the Pacific Hotel, a relic of old Yamba standing tall above Main Beach like a lifeguard who never clocks off. The views are, of course, to die for – but so is the classic pub fare, Aussie beers are on tap and there’s a laid-back, everyone’s welcome atmosphere.

Out + about

There are many beaches to get through, so dedicate most of your time to hopping from one to the other. Convent Beach is the closest, and you can walk across the rocks in front of the Lido to get there. Main Beach is another excellent swimming spot, and those who embody “I like long walks on the beach” will thrive at Pippi with its 1.6 kilometres of sandy shoreline.

The verdict

Whether it’s falling asleep to crashing waves or private sunbaking at the water’s edge, finding serenity is a breeze at Il Delfino.

The essentials

4 Ocean St, Yamba, NSW. Suites from $790 a night; bungalow from $590 a night. Children 10 and above welcome, plus “Bambino Week” is held at certain times of the year when all ages are welcome. Bookings ildelfino.com.au Phone 0477518770 or email [email protected]

Our rating out of five

★★★★½

Highlight

Ocean breezes straight off the waves, spilling in through those oversized 1940s windows.

Lowlight

Parking is a little tight out front.

The writer stayed as a guest of the hotel.

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Melissa Mason is a freelancer writer and contributor to The Age.AdvertisementAdvertisement